Meatloaf Tacos at Good 2 Go Taco in Dallas

This year, Good 2 Go Taco won a Best of Dallas® award from our sister paper, the Dallas Observer, for best menu expansion. Until very recently, the women behind Good 2 Go -- Jeana Johnson and Colleen O'Hare -- were selling their tacos out of a gas station, albeit the green, eco-friendly kind in which you would find things like meatloaf tacos and a chicken taco named after Steve Martin's character from The Jerk.

An appearance on the Food Network's popular show The Best Thing I Ever Ate cemented the pair's need for a full-service kitchen to keep up with public demand for their creative tacos, and they finally opened their own restaurant earlier this year. It was this restaurant that was my grandmother's sole dining demand when I visited her in Dallas last week.

And although I'm loathe to admit it, this is one Dallas concept I'd love to see in Houston.

Good 2 Go Taco has capitalized on the same "gourmet" taco trend as Torchy's in Austin and -- until recently -- Greatfull Taco in Houston. But it does so without a shred of obnoxious pretension or preening self-awareness, seeming to exist solely as a place where -- yeah -- you can get a taco filled with biscuits and gravy or chicken and waffles. So what?

It's that charming lack of conceit that made Good 2 Go Taco appealing from the moment I walked into its small restaurant, which is mostly lit by the floor-to-ceiling windows that line one wall. There's a small coffee shop section featuring Cultivar beans and brews and a convenience store-style case from which to choose your cold beverages, perhaps in a nod to Good 2 Go Taco's gas station roots. The menu is short and sweet, the line moves swiftly and your tacos are brought to you by a grinning Hispanic man with a completely unironic and wholly impressive handlebar mustache.

We ordered four tacos among us -- alas, not La Vaca Loca taco that made the Observer's list of 100 Favorite Dishes -- and it was the hearty meatloaf taco that I ended up liking best. It was a surprise, given the blue cheese-laced pulled pork and Steve Martin-inspired jerk chicken. And, honestly, I could have done without the tortilla itself, as it was getting in the way of fully enjoying the Sri Racha ketchup-topped meatloaf, sweet and thick over a bed of skin-on mashed potatoes.

Meatloaf tacos in a cozy restaurant with a serious coffee program? Yes, this is something I could get used to in Houston very easily.

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