Two cheese enchiladas topped with a fried egg (or two) is one of my favorite Tex-Mex breakfasts. It used to be known as huevos montados (eggs mounted) back in the day. Dos Amigos on Washington has this dish on the menu. So do lots of other Houston Tex-Mex joints. But if I don't see it, I often ask for it anyway. After all, how hard is it to throw a fried egg on top of a cheese enchilada plate? I have never been disappointed with this dish -- until now.
The cheese enchiladas and fried egg I had at Alma Latina on Shepherd were terrible. The cheese tasted like congealed chile con queso sludge, and there wasn't nearly enough chili gravy to balance it out. The egg looked steamed instead of fried. And the plate itself was cold. Whoever is running this kitchen hasn't quite gotten the hang of Tex-Mex. I added a lot of salsa to moisten the enchiladas. The salsa was hot as hell and very tasty.
I noticed a dish on Alma Latina's menu that had "Tierra Caliente" in the name. So I'm going to guess that the owners are from the lowlands of Guerrero or Michoacan. Next time I eat there, I'll skip the Tex-Mex and try some dishes from that region of Mexico. There are several Alma Latina Taquerias around town -- I'll see if I can find the dishes that made them popular.
We Believe Local Journalism is Critical to the Life of a City
Engaging with our readers is essential to the mission of the Houston Press. Make a financial contribution or sign up for a newsletter, and help us keep telling Houston’s stories with no paywalls.