Moules Au Curry.
Moules Au Curry.
Joanna O'Leary

Moules au Curry at Jeannine's Bistro

When I was in London this summer, I went to Belgo, "the world's greatest Belgian restaurant."

Debatable. The restaurant resembled the set of Alien, and my waiter didn't speak any English and was wearing a cheesy monk costume. My moules frites were pretty good, but they cost, like, 30 dollars. Goddamn, the pound is strong.

I like Jeannine's Bistro better.

On a Monday night, I enjoyed a terrific salad dotted with crisp, buttery baguette croutons and a peppery Caesar dressing. My entree, moules au curry was heaven on the half-shell. More than a dozen above-average-size mussels were drenched in a sunny yellow curry dusted with parsley and paprika. The accompanying frites were a bit over-fried but much improved when alternately dipped in mayo, ketchup, and excess curry. And I always enjoy eating things out of a cone.

A large order of moules frites ($20) makes for a very hearty but not overpowering meal. I encourage over-ordering, as working through a large platter will give you more time to enjoy Jeannine's terrific ambiance. There's something so lovely about the combination of the occasional clink of shells, the crooning of Frank Sinatra, and the low hum of an air-conditioner on a sultry weekday evening.


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