Nice Gnocchi

The potato flour Italian dumplings at Simposio (5591 Richmond, 713-532-0550) are formed to look like small scallops swimming in a rich Gorgonzola cheese fondue. The Gorgonzola imparts an intense flavor to the otherwise bland boiled gnocchi. The dish would be completely monochromatic but for some green speckles of chopped parsley and a generous topping of freshly grated Parmesan, which adds a yellow hue. The texture of the gnocchi is such that they beg to be pressed between your tongue and the roof of your mouth, then swallowed. Available at dinner only ($12.50).
KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani