Niko Niko's

Paul Galvani September 25, 2003 4:00AM

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Greece is considered the cradle of civilization. This is especially true when it comes to gastronomy, since the first cookbook can be traced to 330 BC, when Archestratos of Gela wrote down his thoughts on cooking. Most Greek cuisine is simple, straightforward and unpretentious, and it makes use of abundant local products such as olives, lemons and herbs. The lemon-pepper pork chops ($11.95) at Niko Niko's (2520 Montrose, 713-528-1308) use these simple ingredients. An olive oil, garlic, oregano and lemon juice marinade makes the charbroiled chops particularly juicy and flavorful. They're served with rough-cut, skin-on french fries, a substantial Greek salad, pita bread and a tart yogurt-cucumber tzatziki sauce, which keeps everything nice and moist. It may not be possible to be a god, but it's certainly possible to eat like one.

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Paul Galvani

Niko Niko's

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