4

Of Short Ribs, Cheese and Honey at Zelko Bistro

The "problem" with being a loyal fan of any restaurant is that each visit is laden with high expectations based on a history of good experiences. For me, such is the case with Zelko Bistro, site of many successful dinners with friends, festive feasts, and tête-à-têtes with my friend Maggie.

In the course of my dining relationship with Zelko, I've tried and enjoyed many things on the menu. My favorites include the Captin's Chicken (though I always sub in the polenta for the Yukon mash), the Boss Burger, whose warm eggy brioche bun almost eclipses the succulent beef patty it sandwiches, and the Chopped Bleu Salad, a delightfully sloppy, crunchy mixture of romaine, blue cheese, apples, pecans, red onion, and bacon.

This past weekend, however, I eschewed custom for innovation by trying two new (to me) plates at Zelko, where my friends and I found ourselves once again celebrating the birthday of one of our coterie. More specifically, I squelched my temptation to order a very rare Boss burger and then douse it in ketchup and mayonnaise in favor of trying the St. Arnold's short ribs.

This story continues on the next page.

A root beer braise gave the short ribs a slightly sweet flavor that was balanced by darker, richer bovine notes. The texture was just a tad tougher than I would have liked, as the ribs were only easily separable from the bone rather than "falling off." A side of spritely sauteed greens and Zelko's show-stopping butter-cheese polenta more than made up for the tenderness issue.

And while, with regards to my starter, I did succumb to tradition by ordering the Chopped Bleu, I still managed to go off my beaten path a bit thanks to my companions' order of the cheese plate. Almost as impressive as the assortment of hard and soft, pungent and mild locally-sourced cheeses was the rainbow of berry and grape accompaniments. Cutest of all was a center spoon holding a square of honeycomb, no doubt from the Heights Honeybee Project.

So concludes another love letter of mine to Zelko Bistro, which I know must have faults. But with every visit, I become even more blind to them.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send: