On the Menu: #11 at Flying Dragon

The Flying Dragon (1710 W. 18th), an obscure, little Chinese food eatery tucked into the corner of a retail strip, caught my eye while driving the other day. Obscure Chinese food eatery? There are hundreds of those in the greater Houston area. But why did I stop at this one? Well, I was hungry, and with a name like Flying Dragon, I was willing to give it a shot. If I ever do a "Top 5 Restaurant Names," the Flying Dragon is definitely on the list.

I just love the lunch special combination concept utilized in the Chinese food industry. Does it really get any better for under $8? The Flying Dragon set a record with 51 various plates. Yes, you read right-- combinations. You name it, the Flying Dragon offered it. After few minutes of back and forth, I went with #11--chicken chow mein, egg foo young, and pork fried rice.

You may be (but probably aren't) asking yourself how I decided on #11. It was all about the egg foo young. I love this dish, but also consider it to the highest risk/reward dish on any restaurant's menu. If done right, it's magical. If done wrong, it's a greasy pile of fried egg with thick brown gravy. I decided to go "all in" and see what the Flying Dragon was made of.

The combination plate came with a small bowl of wonton soup. It was pretty solid, nothing memorable, but it did provide a nice start to the meal. The egg foo young, along with everything else, was delicious. I was very impressed with the fairly crispy texture, crunchy spouts, and delicious diced chicken in the pancake. The gravy was perfect--not too gloppy, nor salty. My chow mein was a little celery-heavy, but mixed with a little fried rice and gravy, it was just right.

My #11 at the Flying Dragon was a hit. I'll definitely be back. I've got my eye on #17.

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Kevin Shalin
Contact: Kevin Shalin