Market Watch

Open Letter to Revival Market: More Kolaches, Please!

Dear Revival Market,

I love Kolache Saturday, and it's all your fault. For inventing it. And for making the kolaches very, very delicious. Please make them every Saturday.

Love, Christina

Do you guys think that will work? Because I'm completely obsessed with Kolache Saturday, after Revival Market put on two of them, two weekends in a row. I like Revival but don't get there often because it's on the other side of town. But when I got an email from them announcing a limited run of kolaches, to be served on Saturday morning, I thought it would be a great excuse to get out the door early for breakfast on Saturday before our usual errands.

I am so intrigued by the kolache -- the different forms it takes, and the fierce arguments and loyalties it inspires when I talk or write about it. They are the perfect breakfast bite and taste delicious with coffee. Searching out Houston's best kolaches has been a fun project for me. So if Revival was going to make them, I was going to try them.

All the right words and phrases were right there in the newsletter announcing the Kolache Saturday event: "scratch," "grandmother," "housemade," and, of course, "kolache." The Revival crew promised an "homage to those old-fashioned, Czech-style kolaches" that owner Morgan Weber's gram used to make, but these would be crafted by "Kolache Queen" Victoria Rittinger and Chef Ryan Pera.

Royal kolaches? SOLD!

On the Saturday of Memorial Day Weekend I hauled my husband out of bed, hauled my dog outside for her morning constitutional, and then hauled ass to Revival Market for kolaches. By the time we got there the line was 15 deep, and by the time we got to the counter it was out the door. Josh and I ordered two each of the offerings, and took them to-go: a peach/bourbon/bacon kolache, a strawberry/basil kolache, and a sausage-and-cheese klobasnek. (Hey, Revival makes the distinction, even if you guys don't want to.)

When we got into the car we had every intention of waiting until we got home to enjoy our pastry with coffee, except that by the time we had driven a block the intoxicating smell of warm dough, sweet jam, and spicy sausage overtook us. We tore open the cardboard to-go box and tore into the kolaches. I started with the peach/bourbon/bacon, which in addition to being buttery and sweet, was still fresh-from-the-oven hot. The strawberry/basil was my favorite, though -- something about the combination of strawberries and the lemony basil with the pillowy, buttery dough sprinkled with just a hint of sea salt ... I stole my husband's and ate it. It had to be done. The two of us finished off three kolaches each (well, I had 3.5 and he had 2.5) by the time we were crossing Washington Ave. I know, we're gross.

Okay. I'M GROSS. Happy?

Whether you want to call the sausage-and-cheese concoction a kolache or a klobasnek is up to you, but it was the clear winner of the three for me -- I'm savory on the savory-vs.-sweet scale, every time. The sausage was piping-hot, even though I ate it last, and in addition to being nice and spicy it was deliciously, dribbling-ly juicy. Also, there was enough cheese, and "not enough cheese" is my Number One Kolache Komplaint.

Kolache Saturday was so successful, and sold out so quickly (400 kolaches in less than 90 minutes, according to the follow-up newsletter) that Revival Market announced a "Kolache Saturday, The Revenge" event the very next Saturday. We got up even earlier that day, to make sure we were there when the doors opened at 8 a.m. (okay, maybe it was 8:10 a.m.) to get our kolaches. This time we sat at a table, sipped our lattes and ate our pastry, while watching dozens of our fellow rabid kolache fans queue up. I know these must be a lot of hard work, guys -- you can taste it -- but I'm begging you to bring us another Kolache Saturday, and soon.

This weekend would be great. Thanks.

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Christina Uticone