^
Keep Houston Press Free
4

Pancho Villa Wants You, Gringo!

How can you resist a Mexican restaurant called Pancho Villa’s Kitchen (1482 Wilcrest, 713-782-3919) that advertises by hiring a couple of hombres to stand on the sidewalk in big straw hats and serapes holding signs?

The restaurant turns out to be a charming little seven-table café with dark wood furniture and lots of pictures of Pancho on the walls. The owner is a Houstonian of French-German-Mexican descent named Jean Pierre. It’s his Mexican wife who does all the cooking. She’s from Veracruz and her homemade tortillas, tamales and sauces are superb. There are also some Veracruz-style shrimp dishes on the menu.

This place is trying hard to stay authentic. Instead of Tex-Mex chips and salsa, they bring you whole tostadas covered with refried beans and sprinkled with white cheese when you sit down. (They are free and you can get refills.) There’s a homemade green sauce on the table if you want it spicy. And there are Mexican cokes in the fridge if you want your drinks sweetened with cane sugar.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Houston and help keep the future of Houston Press free.

Most dishes here are made to order, including the chunky guacamole and the sensational red and green chicken enchiladas with crema. I recommend the made-from-scratch mole Poblano; it’s dark, complex and seductively smooth.You can get it with chicken or all by itself on tortillas -- just ask for the tortillas enmoladas. --

Robb Walsh

Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.