In the beginning, there were biscuits. Dense with butter flavor and lightly toasted, both were served with a mild red pepper jelly more sweet than spicy and lighter-than-air unsalted whipped butter. We dug in and wanted to request another serving, but held back, because, well you don't go to Paul's Kitchen just for bread and butter.

Located in the former home of Haven, Paul's Kitchen has the uneviable burden of replacing a beloved neighborhood restaurant and dealing with the shitshow of parking situation created by unwashed masses that flock to Twin Peaks every night.

Despite these handicaps, Paul's Kitchen is off to a very good start. Attentive servers, well-executed dishes with the occasional playful spin, and a terrific wine list bode well for their continued success.

A broad selection of small plates means even the most selective of diners will find it hard not to order a starter. The beef tartare is modest in portion but major in flavor and the accompanying sourdough points the perfect surface for absorbing the piquant residual juices of the compote of shallots, capers, mustard, and bovine flesh. In combination with another appetizer, the tartare could easily serve as part of satisfying dinner.

You could pair, for example, this turf with surf in the form of the BBQ shrimp, huge shell-on prawns lounge in an earthy brown Worcestershire bath and served with their own toasts to soak up the extra sauce.

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