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Pho Binh on Beamer

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In this week's Cafe review, we visit the funky trailer in South Houston that everybody who loves pho raves about.

The front room only has three tables, but it's a good place to sit because when no one is looking, you can sneak into the kitchen, which is right behind the cashier, and see the giant pots of beef stock cooking.

I got the No. 6 (tai nam gau) with rare steak, brisket and crispy fat. The beef broth was exceptional -- rich and salty with lots of spices. Pho is traditionally made with star anise, but my breakfast companion speculated that the kitchen changes the spice blend from summer to winter. She thought she detected more cinnamon in Pho Binh's winter broth.

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