At the recently opened Pierson's Cajun & Country Café (3843 Cartwright Rd., Missouri City, 281-208-8882), the gumbo is as good as it gets. The "small" ($3.95) comes in an extra-large bowl, so consider this when ordering; it's hard to imagine what the "large" looks like. At the bottom of the bowl is brilliant white rice, which is stacked with a quarter of a chicken, sans skin, a link of sausage cut into fine slices, and lots of shrimp. A dark roux-infused broth gives the gumbo its dark, rich flavor.
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