Breakfast

Pulp Breakfast: Dot Hits the Spot

Dot Coffee Shop is so authentic-looking I half expected to see Ringo attempting to rob Jules Winnfield and Vincent Vega when I walked in the door. Now, I say authentic-looking, because soon after arriving I was tipped off by a dining companion that it is actually owned by the Marsellus Wallace-like Pappas Restaurants empire. Does that mean they don't serve quality, no-frills grub, though?

We went in around 10 a.m. on a recent morning, and there was a wait about eight people long. It only took a few minutes until we were led to our clean booth by a lady named Flo (not sure if that was her actual name or not, but it should have been). I ordered a combo with two eggs, an array of meat, 16 pounds of hashbrowns and pecan-loaded pancakes. My honey bunny selected the chicken-fried steak and eggs, which also came with 16 pounds of hashbrowns.

The CFS wasn't the pounded-out, size-of-a-platter kind that we expected, though. It was more like a cook grabbed an entire NY strip, dipped it in batter and tossed it in the fryer. That steak was tender, juicy and delicious. The cream gravy that accompanied it was peppery and flavorful and didn't suffer from the bland, glob-of-glue feeling that some gravy is cursed with.

I honestly can't come up with complaint one about any of the food; it was delicious. The server was friendly and attentive as well. My only complaint, and maybe this is a product of the restaurant being Pappas-owned, is that both of our breakfast selections hovered around the $10 mark. That seemed a few dollars steep to me.

Dot is open 24 hours and even has a full lunch and dinner menu featuring items like meatloaf, mashed taters and chicken sandwiches. If you ask nicely you might even be able to secure a Royale with cheese.

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Lennie Ambrose