Really Heavenly Food

How long you've been in Houston determines what you remember of the red brick structure on Westheimer in the heart of the Montrose. That funky eatery called Frescos? A '70s club and head shop? Or the original St. Matthews Church? Natives and newcomers alike agree that the current resident, Mark's American Cuisine (1658 Westheimer, 713-523-3800), is the tastiest incarnation of the former church space. And the menu is, well, heavenly. Try the Summerfield Farms lamb loin ($27.95), with a smattering of fresh basil sauce and a gratin of white-cheddar potatoes. These Virginian free-roaming spring lambs are fed corn, wheat and barley as well as grass, which means they have a nice, tasty layer of fat, just enough to make them juicy and tender. The plate of lamb is plenty without being too heavy for these hot days. Baa-appetit!
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Marene Gustin