Recession Lunching at Feast

Feast's abundant lunch specials put other recession dining features to shame.

Every weekday at lunch, Feast puts together a menu with two courses for $12.95 or three courses for $15.95. Last Wednesday, the appetizer list offered choices like spiced red lentil soup, Welsh rarebit and a salad with romaine, cucumber, radish and celery. The entrees were a choice of pork chop with bubble and squeak; calf's liver and bacon with mashed potatoes and spinach; fish and scallop pie topped with cheese and leek-crusted mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts; and a vegetarian dish of roasted sweet peppers and sautéed wild mushrooms.

The amount of food brought with each course is more than one person could possibly consume, making the deal even better (hello, leftovers). And the pure comfort dispensed by a savory, cheese-covered piece of Welsh rarebit or an enormous bowl of fish and scallops in a cream sauce covered with mashed potatoes is immeasurable.

Feast continues to win praises around Houston and around the country, and for good reason: Its food is unpretentious yet refined and triumphant in its simplicity. The lunch special is perhaps the best time to experience the restaurant's charm -- if you have the time.

Despite the fact that Feast was achingly quiet on Wednesday, three courses took more than 90 minutes to eat. The incredibly slow pace of the kitchen could be forgiven if the restaurant were busy, or if we all had 90 minutes to spare at lunch.

Until the kitchen picks up the pace a bit, Feast isn't the best spot in town for working people to grab lunch. But if you can get away from the office, save room for dessert.

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