In several weeks, the owners are planning on opening a food truck to serve the crowds at The Boot. Tommy and his brother are currently working out of a tiny kitchen area where they're able to boil seafood. Everything else -- the gumbo, red beans and étouffée -- gets prepared in the kitchen of a house on the property. It's not the best setup for a place serving dozens of pounds of crawfish a night during peak season, but it'll do for now.

Billy hopes to build an actual kitchen on the property, then take the food truck off-site to parks and events to serve "those dishes that real South Louisiana natives crave for from their childhoods." He's well on his way to a Cajun food empire once The Boot conquers the finicky Heights crowd. In spite of the loyalty so many felt toward Shady Tavern, The Boot seems to have won people over quickly.

There's something about the Southern hospitality and laid-back charm that makes you want to stay awhile, even if the AC isn't running, even if the crawfish are a little small and hard. The nostalgic feel of the classic Houston icehouse coupled with family recipes perfected in the swamps of Louisiana is an ideal blend of Bayou City and Bayou State, and perhaps one that, like the old building itself, will stand the test of time.

The Boot 1206 West 20th, 713-869-2668. Hours: Wednesday through Friday, 5 p.m. to 12 a.m.; Saturday, 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Crawfish $5.99/pound Shrimp $13.50/pound Snow crab $16 Étouffée $8 Red beans $5 Gumbo $6.50 Sausage $6/link Boudin $6/link