Restaurant Reviews

Review: Let Simplicity Be Your Guide at Regal Seafood House and Lounge

When a simple bowl of shrimp wonton soup grabs your attention and holds it through several meals, you take note. Opt for a bowl to begin a meal at Regal Seafood House and Lounge, the big-box-glitzy Stafford outpost from the folks behind Galleria-area gem E-Tao. Ordered as a peace offering to a couple of kids looking askance at pictures of crispy squab heads on the menu, it was the surprise hit of one weeknight dinner.

Hitting the sweet spot between simplicity and depth of flavor is a tough thing to do. Boasting a deeply nutty broth, a broad and roasty flavor base with just the right note of sweetness, that wonton soup gives any consommé a run for its money in terms of sheer flavor impact. It's like distilled essence of shrimp, its richness matched by its clarity and purposefulness, with a grace note of green onion drifting by as the shellfish blooms across your palate. The wontons themselves could perhaps be slightly thinner-skinned, but the rough-hewn shrimp they enrobe hits all the right notes, plump and pearly and echoing back the flavor of the broth.

Why spend so many words on an offhand order of soup? Because it's a good marker for how Regal Seafood might best be approached in general. Let simplicity be your guide.

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Nicholas L. Hall is a husband and father who earns his keep playing a video game that controls the U.S. power grid. He also writes for the Houston Press about food, booze and music, in an attempt to keep the demons at bay. When he's not busy keeping your lights on, he can usually be found making various messes in the kitchen, with apologies to his wife.
Contact: Nicholas L. Hall