Restaurant Reviews

Review: Punk's Simple Southern May Be Trying a Little Too Hard, But Don't Miss the Biscuits

As we placed our order, the server's eyes grew wider and wider, and his hand moved furiously across his notepad, attempting to keep up with our laundry list of desired appetizers. When we were finally finished, he stepped back and looked at us -- two people who had just ordered enough food to feed the Rockets' starting lineup.

"Okay. Sounds good." He kept eyeing us as if concerned that we might be dangers to ourselves.

"We're hungry," we replied simply and sheepishly.

"Hey, man, no worries," he finally said, laughing. "When you come here to eat, you eat."

And indeed we did. Something about the country cuisine at Punk's Simple Southern invites large portions and shared platters and a feeling of being with family, even among strangers. We passed biscuits -- flaky, buttery, pillow-soft mounds of dough that might just be the best in Houston -- back and forth across the table, and even offered some to the waiter, now an accessory in our plot to eat our way though the entire menu. We double-dipped spoons into a single bowl of gumbo, thick but not quite dark or complex enough for our tastes. We took photos of each other with the chicken-fried steak, a portion larger than each of our heads, and we finished the feast with two desserts because why the heck not?

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Kaitlin Steinberg