Everyone can relax. No army mess hall, the extra room still seems comfortably cozy, despite significantly adding seating to the restaurant located in the Hotel Granduca (1080 Uptown Park Boulevard, 713-418-1000). The noise level is low, the service exemplary and the food is just terrific.
Next up was my favorite of the night: a fricassee of chanterelle and morel mushrooms served on a tartalette with morel port wine reduction. The sauce added zing to the whole dish and the tartalette was crispy and light.
The main course was pan seared veal medallion served on a celery root puree with porcini mushroom sauce. Again, the porcini mushroom sauce took this dish out of the realm of the ordinary.
The one deviation was in the dessert course – Poledica paired a sweet pink dessert wine with the panna cotta and pistachio. He suggested cutting the dessert wine with Pellegrino if we found it too sweet. I’m not a fan of sweet wines, no matter how appropriate to the moment, and this one didn’t change my mind --but the dessert was light, fluffy and delicious and my daughter ate all of hers and more than half of mine. – Margaret Downing