Rum Runner

It's almost a pity that one has to enjoy a whole meal at Buon Appetito (2231 West Holcombe, 713-665-4601) before getting to taste the house specialty, the torta 'o rum ($4.50). Italians love to add liqueur to almost anything they cook, especially desserts. So it is with the torta 'o rum, which consists of a rum-soaked, triple-layer cake interspersed with a creamy yet firm Italian custard that's perfect for soaking up the heavenly spirit. Needless to say, this cake is very moist. Morsels of almonds and coconut add both texture and exotic flavoring and sop up any remaining liquid.
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Paul Galvani