Savvy Salmon

For culinary engineering at its best, consider the salmon tikka lunch special ($9) at chic Restaurant Indika (12665 Memorial, 713-984-1725). In a complex and healthful interplay of textures and temperatures, glazed salmon fillet wedges are spiced with whole pink peppercorns and served warm, nuzzled up against a cool, crisp green apple and watercress salad. Crackly-skinned roasted new potatoes glossed with mustard oil roll alongside, while sharp pickled red onions sneak up to invigorate and cleanse the palate. The salmon is served with a freshly made coconut chutney that leaves a lush and satiny feel in your mouth. A dish this delish calls for celebration. The party is provided by the house specialty aperitif, the kashmir royale, an exotic bubbly blend of litchi fruit and champagne.

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Robin Barr Sussman