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Savvy Salmon

For culinary engineering at its best, consider the salmon tikka lunch special ($9) at chic Restaurant Indika (12665 Memorial, 713-984-1725). In a complex and healthful interplay of textures and temperatures, glazed salmon fillet wedges are spiced with whole pink peppercorns and served warm, nuzzled up against a cool, crisp green apple and watercress salad. Crackly-skinned roasted new potatoes glossed with mustard oil roll alongside, while sharp pickled red onions sneak up to invigorate and cleanse the palate. The salmon is served with a freshly made coconut chutney that leaves a lush and satiny feel in your mouth. A dish this delish calls for celebration. The party is provided by the house specialty aperitif, the kashmir royale, an exotic bubbly blend of litchi fruit and champagne.

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