Forget heavy sauces and fancy preparation — some seafood dishes are best prepared and served "au naturel," like Laura's sautéed shrimp and crabmeat ($27.95) at Segari's (1503 Shepherd, 713-880-2470). Three ginormous shrimp and at least a half-pound of crabmeat are sautéed in butter along with spinach, onions, red bell peppers, mushrooms and seasonal veggies like zucchini squash. There's lots of crispy garlic bread on the side, an indispensable sopper-upper of anything left on the bottom of the plate. Simple, delicious — nothing like it.

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