I have a theory that whenever a restaurant chooses to name a dish after a particular person, the tribute usually points to one of the better items on the menu. In the case of Emily’s goat cheese ravioli ($13) at divino (1830 West Alabama, 713-807-1123), my theory was again confirmed, especially since, as I later found out, Emily was the chef’s fiancรฉe. If this dish was created in her honor, it is quite a compliment. Eight little pillows of rectangular pasta, puffed up in the middle by the filling, all neatly sealed around the edges, lie in a pool of olive oil and Parmesan cheese. Crunchy pine nuts and fresh sage not only break up the monochromatic look of the dish but also add some desirable texture. The not-too-pungent goat cheese filling adds a welcome piquancy, converting the dish’s plain and simple flavors to something simply divine.
This article appears in Jun 19-25, 2003.