The salt & pepper shrimp at Fins Seafood Sushi & Grill (2810 Westheimer, 713-750-9483) are available either as an appetizer ($7) or as a main dish ($21). Either way, they’re tossed in salt and pepper and stir-fried with thin slices of onions and scallions and tiny strips of ginger. Six jumbo shrimp come with the appetizer portion; as a main course, you get a dozen, along with rice and vegetables. The simple preparation is remarkable in its purity of flavors — the fewer the better.
This article appears in Mar 18-24, 2010.