The salt & pepper shrimp atFins Seafood Sushi & Grill
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(2810 Westheimer, 713-750-9483) are available either as an appetizer ($7) or as a main dish ($21). Either way, they're tossed in salt and pepper and stir-fried with thin slices of onions and scallions and tiny strips of ginger. Six jumbo shrimp come with the appetizer portion; as a main course, you get a dozen, along with rice and vegetables. The simple preparation is remarkable in its purity of flavors — the fewer the better.