Were I a doubting Thomas, I might view Kenny & Ziggy's claim of the "World's Largest Chocolate Éclair" ($6.95) as mere New York braggadocio. My first glimpse, however, of this thing of beauty at Kenny & Ziggy's New York Delicatessen
(2327 Post Oak Boulevard, 713-871-8883) was proof enough: Its length and girth make it look like a salami. Made of light, fluffy choux
pastry, it's filled with a luscious, creamy custard and topped with a heavy coating of rich, dark chocolate. There's something about a foot of éclair that makes me wonder if any other bakers out there have pastry envy.