Slaying Dragons with Sake

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I had some excellent sake with my seafood at a dinner recently. It had a fresh, fruity flavor and a lively kick. If you don't know much about sake but want to sample some serious stuff, experts recommend Wakatake Daiginjo Onikoroshi as the place to start. You drink this one cold in a wine glass, not heated in a little cup. (The cheap stuff tastes better warm.)

Sake is graded by how much the rice is milled. Daiginjo is a designation that indicates a fortified wine made with highly milled rice (50 percent of the kernel is polished away). Onikoroshi means "Demon Killer," and you can let your imagination decide what that means.

According to some, this is the sake that Japanese gangsters drink. A regular size (720 ml) bottle of Wakatake's Daiginjo Onikoroshi goes for something like $40 at retail. This 1.8 liter bottle sells for about $90 at Block 7 Wine Company, 720 Shepherd.

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