Although the menu at the Daily Review Cafe (3412 West Lamar, 713-520-9217) changes every day, one dish is ever present: the chicken potpie ($9.75). In this constantly changing world, it's comforting to know that certain classic dishes will always be around. The handmade puff pastry atop the pie is crimped and rolled around the edges so that it looks like a cap. And after you break through the flaky crust with your fork, the first taste lets you know it's made with real butter. There's no skimping on the chicken, either, with large pieces of solid white meat nesting nicely among onions, carrots and celery pieces in a rich, creamy sauce that tastes lightly of fresh fennel. Since every order is made from scratch, don't rush your server. Comfort is worth waiting for.
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