The torta ahogada ($8.49) at Paparrucho's (3055 Sage, 713-212-3178) is an eight-inch hoagie roll covered with refried beans, filled with delectable pork carnitas and smothered with lime-marinated onions. The name of the dish, which comes from Guadalajara, literally means "drowned sandwich," because before serving, it's dunked into a spicy tomato sauce that's also poured on top. The result is a soft sandwich best eaten with knife and fork. Despite the soggy bread, the onions remain firm and the carnitas, crispy.
KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani