Special Sauce at Beaver's

Special sauce: The Jon-Jon noodles ($6) at Beaver's (2310 Decatur, 713-864-2328) are irresistibly addictive. When the bowl of noodles is first placed in front of you, there seems to be something missing, since all you see are the noodles and some very thin strips of cucumber on top. But they're hiding the wonderful sweet and spicy sauce, which has sunk to the bottom of the bowl. It's this sauce — an intriguing combination of ginger, orange, lime, sugar and spice — that makes these noodles so special. Different flavors unravel with each bite.

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Paul Galvani