“His mama called him Sugar Lump,” one of the customers at Sugar Lump’s Fine BBQ said pointing in the direction of the owner, Roosevelt Brooks, when I asked about the restaurant’s unusual name. Roosevelt Brooks shot me a dour look, just in case I was thinking about calling him Sugar Lump too.
The barbecue joint was housed in a trailer on Highway 84 just south of Lubbock in the small town of Slaton where I stopped for late lunch. Brooks and his two buddies were sitting at a table when I walked in on a Friday afternoon around two. Judging by the cans of Coca-Cola and the pint bottle of Crown Royal poorly concealed in a brown paper bag, I’d guess they were enjoying a few Crown and Cokes when I so rudely interrupted.
When I asked for lunch, Sugar Lump reluctantly got up and made me an excellent sliced brisket sandwich. I requested the barbecue sauce on the side so I could appreciate the meat. The sliced beef was tender with a deep smoky flavor and the barbecue sauce was thin and peppery. Brooks was even more inconvenienced when I asked him to pose for a photo with my sandwich in front of his sign. But his buddies egged him on, and he finally agreed.
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They invited me to stay awhile. It would have been nice to sit down and drink a cocktail with my brisket sandwich, but I had a long way to drive. – Robb Walsh