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Keep Houston Press Free
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Sugar Lump’s Fine BBQ Just Outside Lubbock

“His mama called him Sugar Lump,” one of the customers at Sugar Lump’s Fine BBQ said pointing in the direction of the owner, Roosevelt Brooks, when I asked about the restaurant’s unusual name. Roosevelt Brooks shot me a dour look, just in case I was thinking about calling him Sugar Lump too.

The barbecue joint was housed in a trailer on Highway 84 just south of Lubbock in the small town of Slaton where I stopped for late lunch. Brooks and his two buddies were sitting at a table when I walked in on a Friday afternoon around two. Judging by the cans of Coca-Cola and the pint bottle of Crown Royal poorly concealed in a brown paper bag, I’d guess they were enjoying a few Crown and Cokes when I so rudely interrupted.

When I asked for lunch, Sugar Lump reluctantly got up and made me an excellent sliced brisket sandwich. I requested the barbecue sauce on the side so I could appreciate the meat. The sliced beef was tender with a deep smoky flavor and the barbecue sauce was thin and peppery. Brooks was even more inconvenienced when I asked him to pose for a photo with my sandwich in front of his sign. But his buddies egged him on, and he finally agreed.

They invited me to stay awhile. It would have been nice to sit down and drink a cocktail with my brisket sandwich, but I had a long way to drive. – Robb Walsh

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