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Keep Houston Press Free
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Sunrise Taquito

Sunrise Taquito (5601 Memorial) is a divine little gas station food shop that exudes warmth and familiarity. Eating there is like sitting at the breakfast table while your parents cook, only with less probing questions about the night before.

There's something therapeutic about sleepily watching your breakfast being made, and these cooks certainly know what they are doing. All prep is in plain view; at the center station, a towering pile of fresh jalapeños is chopped as salsa is sectioned off into to takeaway samples. Back at the skillets, taquito fillings and sides are made to order.

From the photos on display along with milestone dollars at the bar countertop, it's evident Sunrise Taquito draws a full range of followers -- from suits to students to family friends. While we were ordering, a few go-getters drifted in from the park, took stock of our "these sweatpants could totally be workout clothes" pajama-like ensemble, and assured us that Sunrise Taquito calories are worth it.

My meal arrived wrapped in a dense, soft, freshly made tortilla and packaged with sauces red and green. The chorizo and egg taquito was fantastic, as was the "a la Mexicana" taquito, which included sautéed vegetables. The taquitos with bacon, sausage or potato were rather average but still enjoyable. Next time, we'll be sure to order deeper into the menu - we've heard Sunrise serves some of the best carne guisada in the city.

All in all, Sunrise Taquito a pleasant experience, especially once the disoriented feeling of waking before noon on a weekend wore off.

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