The insalata di mare ($9.95) at Ciro's Italian Grill (9755 Katy Freeway, 713-467-9336) is a refreshing, filling salad that's good for splitting in two. To make the dish, Boston lettuce leaves are cut into rectangles, then stacked in the center of the plate along with sweet basil leaves and tomato wedges, with a seafood mixture of squid, calamari, shrimp and mussels sprinkled throughout. Holding all the flavors together is an ample pesto vinaigrette, which has a wonderful olive-oil-and-basil flavor. The salad comes with homemade herb bread that's perfect for dipping in the dressing.
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