Take Me Home

Before eatZi's and Central Market, there was Yapa Kitchen Fresh Take Away (3173 West Holcombe, 713-664-9272). Yapa was the first place in Houston to offer what the food industry has so clumsily dubbed "home meal replacements." The brown-sugar maple-glazed salmon ($14.95 per pound) simply jumps out of the display case, demanding to be taken home. Yapa suggests it be eaten cold over some field greens or hot on a bed of sautéed spinach. Both options are delicious. The slight sweetness imparted by the glaze, with its hint of ginger and soy, gives the fish a gentle Asian quality without overpowering it. -- Paul Galvani

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