You won't find the mojarra a la plancha ($14.99) on the menu at Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana (2115 Airline, 713-862-8425). But you will find mention of it on the delivery truck that sits outside the restaurant, which proudly proclaims "Home of Red Snapper a la Plancha." The fish is lightly dipped in flour and Mexican spices before being grilled and served with grilled onions on a sizzling-hot platter. Don't be put off by the presentation of the whole fish — head, tail and all — or the fact that it's a little more work to eat, since you have to watch for bones. The reward is a delightfully light, tasty, crispy piece of fish that will quickly disappear and leave you wanting more. It's served with fried rice — white rice with soy sauce, black pepper, peas, scallions and bean sprouts. — Paul Galvani
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