Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana

You won't find the mojarra a la plancha ($14.99) on the menu at Tampico Seafood & Cocina Mexicana (2115 Airline, 713-862-8425). But you will find mention of it on the delivery truck that sits outside the restaurant, which proudly proclaims "Home of Red Snapper a la Plancha." The fish is lightly dipped in flour and Mexican spices before being grilled and served with grilled onions on a sizzling-hot platter. Don't be put off by the presentation of the whole fish — head, tail and all — or the fact that it's a little more work to eat, since you have to watch for bones. The reward is a delightfully light, tasty, crispy piece of fish that will quickly disappear and leave you wanting more. It's served with fried rice — white rice with soy sauce, black pepper, peas, scallions and bean sprouts. — Paul Galvani

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani