The seared tuna loin ($27) at Olivette (The Houstonian Hotel, 111 North Post Oak Lane, 713-685-6713) is a spectacular dish with a complex combination of flavors and colors. First there's the fresh tagliatelle pasta, dished up with a good helping of a radiant green pesto made from arugula. Arugula is bitter, of course, but it's sweetened by a bright red tomato confit and some finely shaved fennel. The tuna slices are pink inside and brownish-gray outside, adding further dimensions of color. Be sure to taste everything together, which allows all the flavors to do their job.