On the Road
If you read last week's feature — "Eat Here: The 30 Essential Texas Restaurants to Visit Before You Die" — then you no doubt asked why X, Y or Z restaurant didn't make the list. Below are the 13 restaurants that kept getting mentioned again and again by our food writers and nearly made it, but just didn't get that final vote or two to push them over the top. These are the Dan Marinos of our list — the Super Bowl shut-outs that almost had a taste of sweet, sweet AstroTurf.
Alternately, you could think of these 13 restaurants as an extension of the top 30 list, in case 30 just weren't enough to satiate you. They're arguably as important as some of the others that made the top 30 list and represent an even broader swath of Texas. Tack these 13 onto the end of the top 30 and play the whole list on "expert" level.
Restaurants are listed alphabetically and, as with our 30 list, are not ranked:
Barley Swine, Austin
Notable for: Being a restaurant. Chef Bryce Gilmore once ran the Odd Duck Farm to Trailer — probably Austin's most popular food truck for a long while — and eventually opened this brick-and-mortar gastropub to serve his food full-time in a small-plate format that features locally grown produce. Barley Swine takes its beer as seriously as its wine, too.
Notable for: Serving Creole classics in a refined, dignified setting that's remained virtually the same for many decades despite a devastating fire that burned Brennan's to the ground in 2008. Brennan's has retained its reputation as a "special occasion" spot that's warm and welcoming yet still serious, a quality found in increasingly fewer dining rooms. The restaurant has also trained up generations of young, successful chefs over the years — Randy Evans of Haven and Chris Shepherd of Underbelly, just to name a couple — in its mammoth, old-school kitchen.
Notable for: Chef David Bull's so-called "Natural American" cuisine that's available only in nightly tasting menus — three or seven courses — and prepared with as many locally obtained ingredients as possible, with beverage pairings from sommelier Paula Rester. The pricey meals are served in an appropriately sleek, elegant downtown dining room that's next door to Bull's other concepts: Bar Congress and Second Bar & Kitchen.
La Gloria, San Antonio
Notable for: Being an upscale icehouse near the old Pearl Brewery in the newest hip part of San Antonio, serving a huge variety of Mexican street food from sopes to panuchos and a terrific selection of cocktails. La Gloria's fare is slightly more expensive Mexican street food, to be certain, but the atmosphere and the view onto the river make the price worth it.
The Lonesome Dove, Fort Worth
Notable for: Chef Tim Love's modern Texana cuisine, a love letter to the state, which runs the gamut from traditional steaks to wild boar and rattlesnake. Open for more than a dozen years, Lonesome Dove is in the heart of the Stockyard District — just like Joe T. Garcia's and Cattlemen's Steakhouse — but is by far more upscale than its fellow Fort Worth companions on the list.
Mary's Cafe, Strawn
Notable for: Chicken-fried steak, which has been universally deemed "road trip-worthy." The West Texas-style chicken-fried steak in this tiny town comes in three sizes, but the small is large enough to cover a dinner plate — so order wisely — and comes with all the fixings, including gravy on the side (the right way). Get the "Bubba"-sized tea to wash it all down. Trust us.
Notable for: Chef Justin Yu's Nordic-inspired minimalist cuisine, featuring Gulf Coast products and a predominance of repurposed vegetables. The nightly tasting menus — four or seven courses — are served in an itty-bitty spot in Houston's Warehouse District with baked goods from Yu's wife — pastry chef Karen Man — and an unusual wine program from sommelier Justin Vann.
Notable for: Offering amazing barbecue in the middle of the Big D. Chef/owner Tim Byres goes beyond just barbecue, however, and crafts everything at Smoke in-house, including — as Leslie Brenner noted in her Dallas Morning News review of Smoke in 2011 — "baking breads, putting up pickles and jams, curing sausages, making his own ricotta cheese, growing many of the vegetables and herbs for the restaurant in a garden behind the restaurant."
Notable for: Having its own Wikipedia entry, and generally being accepted as serving some of the best barbecue in Texas despite being open for roughly four hours one day a week. This was perhaps the most surprising omission from the 30 list, along with the fact that no burger joints made the top 30.
Stagecoach Inn, Salado