"We have taken the 50 most popular items from all our other restaurants and put them on the menu here," the manager of Kim Son Café on Eldridge Parkway near Briar Forest told me. When I asked him how he thought this curious new concept was going to do so close to Bellaire Chinatown, he admitted he wasn't from Houston and hadn't spent much time at other Houston Asian restaurants. He said he was from Colorado.
The place reminded me more of Rattan Pan-Asian Bistro right up the street than any of the other locations of the popular Kim Son Vietnamese restaurant chain. We sampled some Shanghai dumplings, some chicken in lettuce leaf wrappers and the house special lo mein. We asked for the lo mein extra-super-spicy, and it was still wimpy. The prices were shockingly high.
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Apparently, Kim Son Café is an Asian restaurant designed to appeal to mainstream tastes -- and they will probably do great in the rapidly expanding energy corridor area. I am guessing they are one of the only restaurants in that part of town that delivers.