—————————————————— The Offering | Restaurants | Houston | Houston Press | The Leading Independent News Source in Houston, Texas

The Offering

The mixed grill (regular, $46.95, or deluxe, $64.95, both for two people) at El Tiempo Cantina (3130 Richmond, 713-807-1600) is made for those who can't make up their minds. It includes nearly everything that the restaurant makes: chicken and beef fajitas, a slab of baby back ribs, two different kinds of sausage (regular and spicy), two different kinds of shrimp (regular and bacon-wrapped), quail and carnitas (chunks of lean pork). The deluxe version also comes with a large lobster tail. As if the meats weren't enough, the sides and fixin's include charro beans, green chile rice, pico de gallo, sour cream, shredded cheddar cheese and half of a large poblano pepper filled with grilled onions and queso. It's a mountain of food that requires the assistance of two servers. The order for two easily feeds three hungry people, and you may still have leftovers. It's served on an anafre, or portable grill, which keeps the food hot through the entire meal. Were I a Mayan god, this is what I would want as an offering.

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Paul Galvani