Lists

The Rest of the Best: Houston's Top 10 Restaurants Where Service Is King

Page 3 of 3

3. Triniti

"Do you notice how you can't even make eye contact with the waiters without them coming over to check on you?" I once asked my dining companion during a review dinner at Triniti. "That's amazing." And yet the service never comes across as obsequious, stuffy or patronizing -- a triumph in and of itself. You always feel welcome at Ryan Hildebrand's ambitious tribute to modern American cuisine, regardless of whether you're wearing shorts or the entire contents of the Versace store at the Galleria (I've seen both here). Hildebrand stocked his place with the best managers, bartenders and servers assembled from the best, most pedigreed restaurants across the city -- and it shows in every service.

2. Laurenzo's

This Washington Avenue steakhouse is better known by now for a waiter who refused to serve a table after he heard them caustically remark on a fellow diner's child with Down's syndrome: "Special needs kids should be kept in special places." Although that waiter's moral code is admirable, I hope that it's not the only thing Laurenzo's is remembered by. Because all of the service here is excellent. The clubhouse-y restaurant is a visual throwback to joints like the Houston's of yore, complete with the smart, friendly, expeditious service that typified those semi-upscale spots. In short, it's the service you'd ideally expect to accompany a really good prime rib and a bottle of wine. And if there were any questions about how seriously the Laurenzo family takes its service, check out the placard on each table that allows you to text the manager directly.

1. Uchi

The massive, multisensory menu at Uchi can be intimidating -- even to hardcore food lovers. Machi cure with yucca crisp and garlic brittle? Walu walu with yuzupon and myoga? It could all be a bit much if it weren't for Uchi's impeccable service, which is what netted it a Best of Houston® award for Best Service in 2012. With a waitstaff that knows the menu inside-out and blindfolded, you can allow your server to be your friendly sherpa while you navigate Houston's Mount Everest of restaurants. They'll even custom-design a dinner for you, allowing you to relax and enjoy the food. Not only is your server ready, willing and able to do all of this -- you'll come out of your dinner there with a wealth of knowledge and new experiences that far surpass the monetary value of just a plain old meal of sushi.

Getting hired at Uchi restaurant is no small task, reports Director of Culinary Operations Philip Speer. Servers must endure a rigorous four-part interview and a battery of personality tests, then prove their mettle during a four-to-six-week training period before they're even allowed to take a table. If it seems like overkill, it's not. The result is a well-trained and disciplined waitstaff that can anticipate your every move, customize meals to your dining style, give a thoughtful explanation of any dish on the menu and do it all with bright, bubbly smiles.

The staff tends to stick around, too. Seven months after opening, Uchi Houston had retained 80 percent of its original opening crew. "We buy in," said Speer of the spirit endemic to the Uchi staff. "We drink the Kool-Aid."



Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Katharine Shilcutt