Bar Beat

Late Night: La Lucha

Late Night: La Lucha
Photo by Kate McLean

Let’s give a warm, Southern welcome to La Lucha, the newest debutante to be presented here at the Houston Press’s late night dining ball. And a special thanks for representing breakfast foods on the menu in a most mouthwatering way. Don’t they say a breakfast a day keeps the doctor away? Mmm, yes child, I believe they do. I believe they do.

On Fridays and Saturdays, beats pop off at around 11 p.m. from a DJ spinning from the middle of the dining room. Guests are comfortably in and out of seats with just enough lighting to wander from the cozy seating in the foyer, to the hunting lodge-like bar, to sprawling picnic benches on the patio.

Bear size Griddle Cakes are served two per order; those crispy edges and that throw-back batter emote memories from Saturday mornings long ago. The Buttermilk Syrup made with Steen’s cane sugar is a sweet drizzle from the heavens; caramel-esque with blasts of butter. Together, the pair become one and just like that, restaurant pancake standards everywhere have been elevated.

click to enlarge Look at those crispy edges. - PHOTO BY KATE MCLEAN
Look at those crispy edges.
Photo by Kate McLean
Biscuits & Gravy hits the table with an upgrade optional fried chicken breast served beneath two eggs fried your way. The plate is drowning in gravy, but please don’t save this ship as the almost always qualm with gravy is a lack thereof. With a healthy portion of cracked black pepper throughout, and Barry White making it impossible to sit still, child, this dish will have you up, out of your seat and actin’ foolish.

Crispy Loaded Hashbrowns; with a name like that and an endless supply of forks (we think), at least one order should make it on the check. Loaded is right; with chili cheese, fried eggs, caramelized onions, avocado, and all the while still crisp in the right parts.

Also on the menu, the Pharmacy Burger and Steak & Eggs featuring a T-bone join $1 Gulf oysters located too close to the Mezcal section not to make a connection. Make the connection. Late nights at La Lucha give the Heights one more reason to twinkle past midnight.

La Lucha
1801 North Shepherd
The late night menu is served Fridays and Saturdays from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m.
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