This Dog's Going to Heaven

The hot dog is to the United States what the choripan is to Argentina -- only the choripan is a whole lot tastier than its American counterpart. The new Argentine restaurant El Buen Bife Grill (4527 Lomitas, 713-523-6373) serves choripan (an abbreviation, but not much of one, for chorizo and pan) for $8.90. While this may seem a little expensive, the plate does come with a starter salad or soup and a side of steak-cut fries. The sandwich consists of a crusty French roll and a pork sausage link that's been sliced down the center and grilled, the heavy smoke flavor somewhat masking the spices of the sausage. The roll is served dry, but an aggressive chimichurri sauce, made from olive oil, vinegar, parsley, oregano, onion and garlic, helps moisten the bread and adds a lot to the flavor.

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Paul Galvani