This girl is on fire. Credit: Photo by Jeff Fitlow

Whether or not you have had the pleasure of dining at the storied Tony’s Restaurant, you’ve more than likely heard tales of presidential visits and celebrity sightings. First founded in 1965 by famed restaurateur Tony Vallone, it has served as a hub for socialites and oil barons who enjoy its upscale vibe and classic Italian cuisine.

For 60 years it has weathered the ups and downs of recessions, hurricanes, the COVID pandemic and the loss of its namesake in September 2020. Since Vallone’s passing, his wife Donna Vallone has continued the tradition of greeting guests and providing the service and hospitality for which her husband was so revered.

In a press release, she said, “You have to have a degree in good personality…I watched Tony through the years and Tony’s was his jewel, it was his life, you know? He tended to it like it was a family member.”

Donna Vallone (left) and Roz Pactor show off their rose-colored glasses. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

When former Tony’s executive chef Austin Waiter left to take over at The Marigold Club in late 2021, Donna Vallone turned to chef Kate McLean, who had previously served in the role and was the first woman to do so at Tony’s. McLean was eager to get back to the restaurant that had years before provided her with the opportunity to work with Tony Vallone and become part of the Tony’s family.

It was a brilliant move for both women. Donna Vallone and Mclean have a symbiotic partnership that blends the traditional with the innovative. While Vallone is often seen welcoming guests, as her husband once did, McLean is the fireball of energy that has breathed new life into the menu and atmosphere, while still keeping some of the much-loved dishes of Tony’s earlier days. Both women say that Tony Vallone is still there in spirit.

The Wine Library at Tony’s is an exclusive private event space. Credit: Photo by Jenn Duncan

Thinking about its anniversary year, McLean says she gets “super smiley at random moments in the day.” In an email to the Houston Press, for which she was a contributing food writer for several years, she said, “I am honored to have been hired by Tony Vallone fifteen years ago and for Donna Vallone to ask me to lead the brand three years ago โ€” I could have never dreamt it. Grateful. This work has strengthened me in so many ways.”

The staff gets into the spirit of fun as well. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

However, she’s the first to say that the success is not hers alone. She gives credit to God for the heavy-lifting and she is grateful for the management team and employees who “smile through the curveballs and bend every which way.” She added, “They are hardworking, detail-oriented, upbeat and optimistic. Working at Tony’s is a lifestyle…so working around people who are positive really keeps gas in the engine.”

The Caviar Potato is a luxurious splurge. Credit: Photo by Tony's Houston

For the anniversary, McLean and her team are showcasing a Tony’s Favorites menu with dishes like Veal Canneloni, Escargot Beef Marrowbone, Spaghetti Amatriciana and a decadent $95 baked potato topped with an ounce of Kaviari Baeri Siberian caviar. McLean is enthusiastic about the caviar service at Tony’s as well as the fresh pasta program which would make her late mentor proud.

The Tony’s Cheeseburger has crispy fries, served in the largest fried onion ring we’ve ever seen. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

While some of the menu is definitely geared toward high rollers, there are less wallet-busting items at lunchtime such as Tony’s Cheeseburger($21), Chicken Sandwich ($17) and Tony’s Club ($15).ย  McLean has also introduced a $30 Express Menu with three courses. Happy hour in the bar runs Tuesday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. with special pricing on select wines and spirits.

Local media were invited recently for a luncheon to launch its Champagne Campaign, which a press release said will last indefinitely. Guests can sip on specially-priced, by-the-glass champagne or indulge inย  its featured bottle for half price. The champagne of the day will rotate regularly and guests will receive a complimentary pair of rose-colored glasses as well. The featured quaff that particular week was Drappier Carte D’Or for $65 a bottle or $16 a glass.

The new cocktails are daytime-friendly. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

Along with the delicious champagne, we were able to sample some of its low-alcohol cocktails for the recently-launched ‘The Spritz Revolution’. I tried the Seaside Spritz which was a refreshing blend of Italicus, Bordiga extra dry vermouth, limoncello and green cardamom. My tablemate had the Front Porch Swinger made with Amaro Montenegro, St. George’s NOLA coffee liqueur and lime. The menu lists it as an “Italian cafe-inspired Pimm’s Cup.” My tablemate said it reminded him of a less alcoholic Long Island Iced Tea.

The Short Rib Cappelletti is an option on the Express Menu. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

Invited guests also enjoyed a taste of some of the new and existing dishes. I opted for the Crab Stuffed Squash Blossom appetizer which was just as the name suggests, two lightly-fried blossoms filled with sweet crab meat. My tablemate went for the Caviar Potato and it looked spectacular. For an entree, I veered a little off course and had the Short Rib Cappelletti from the Express Menu. The freshly-made pasta was filled with tender short rib and topped with roasted eggplant and tomatoes.

The media lunch was hosted by the ever-gracious Donna Vallone who was effusive in her affection for McLean. The celebration ended with a sparkler-lit pistachio souffle, plus a parade of whimsical statuettes topped with cotton candy. Chef McLean then took a seat at the table, eager for feedback.

Chef McLean takes a brief break from her busy day. Credit: Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero

The chef’s love for Tony’s is contagious and her plans for moving forward are many. She’s especially excited about Adult Day Care this June in which guests can enjoy half-off bottles of wine and a free snack mix. She added, “We do not provide blankets for naps however, you can’t sleep here.”

There are plans for a roaring ’20s-themed club room with DJ YO$H June 28 and in mid-July the restaurant will host a themed weekend for Mykonos White Out.ย Guests can also enjoy live music in the dining room Wednesday through Saturday with such local artists as Miguel Delabarca, Tianna Hall and Louie Carrington. McLean says she might even reach out to Grammy Award-winning artist, John Secada, for a possible performance.

Chef Kate McLean wants everyone to have a good time. Credit: Photo by Jeff Fitlow

It’s a celebratory time for the staff at Tony’s, especially those who have worked their magic at the restaurant for decades. However, there are a number of new faces at Tony’s as well, including bar director Spencer Ellison who has created a number of unique cocktails and even an upcoming punch bowl service. McLean hopes that guests will lean into some of the fun, even dancing in the dining room if the mood hits.

She says, “I can tell you the ideas are flowing and I am really not holding back as we blast through 2025. I am having a lot of fun. I want the guests to have fun. That’s the point, right?”

Lorretta Ruggiero is a Houston Press freelance writer based in Cypress, Texas. She loves entertaining her family and friends with her food and sparkling wit. She is married to Classic Rock Bob and they...