Tuna Melt

At The Fish (309 Gray, 713-526-5294), the presentation of each dish is as dramatic as the restaurant's decor. The spicy tuna rice salad ($10) is no exception. The bottom of the plate is covered by a handful of field greens mixed with thin slices of cucumber. A large scoop of hot white rice, topped with a spicy chile sauce, sits in the center, with four generous piles of bite-size sashimi-grade tuna scattered around the perimeter. The hot rice makes the salad start to wilt, creating an interesting taste and texture. And the tuna lives up to its spicy name, although it does require a few mouthfuls for the heat to take effect.

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Paul Galvani