Perhaps no pizza occasion sits higher upon the mantle of memorable (or immemorable) pizza moments than the late-night, post-bar slice of pie. The cheap, ready-made triangle of thin crust and shiny grease that tastes, at that moment, like pure unadulterated joy.
Despite extremely fast service and cheap slices ($3 for most of the basics), these are no fly-by-night pies. Hand-tossed, scratch-made dough bakes to a satisfying outer crunch, keeping a characteristically soft and pliable center — folding is a must. Sauce, also housemade daily, is present but not overtly so. A well-balanced pie if I've ever had one.
I was surprised to find the place busy during a mid-afternoon rush — prior experiences being of the less sober variety. Thankfully, the daytime line (even at lunchtime) doesn't compare to the queues at night which regularly makes its way out the front door.
While no gustatory revelation, the classic cheese is more than serviceable. In fact, for a $3 meal (if you call once slice a meal), it ranks right up there among the best value menu items in Houston. The sausage and pepperoni meat special, however, is where real happiness lies. For such a thin slice, topping saturation is liberal. The thing drips grease like an old pickup, with a firm crust that rides the line between charred and bready. An exceedingly soft doughy center gives way to the crispy outer edge, making for the most satisfying New York pizza fold I've yet to find in H-town.
In the most walkable, charming, active part of downtown, where urban life moves at a pace more comparable to the East Coast, Frank's is an invaluable part of that charm. Walking in feels like you've stepped out of Texas and into Brooklyn. Its old bones a rarity in this knock-em-down boomtown. It's thin greasy pies a slice of something that's in short supply down here in the bayou.