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Restaurant Reviews

Vegan Surprise

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Although the meal was passable (I really enjoyed my dish, but I'm far more amenable to vegan food than most), I fear it will be the first and last time my parents eat at Loving Hut. In fact, I fear that most people will go once and never return. There simply isn't enough variety on the menu to attract and keep customers unless they're already devoted vegetarians or vegans. And out here, those people are few and far between.

But maybe I'll be proven wrong. Maybe west Houston can sustain a healthy, ­vegetarian-focused restaurant out in the dueling wilds of Alief and Royal Oaks. And so what if you're funding a cult every time you eat here? At least the food is good.

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Katharine Shilcutt