Warm-up Course

One thing Italians know how to do is eat. Antipasto is like a series of tapas; but instead of serving them on different plates like the Spaniards do, the Italians prefer them all on one plate. At Damian's Cucina Italiana (3011 Smith, 713-522-0439), the sumptuous assortment of cold foods called antipasto misto ($7.95) is on view at the front of the restaurant. The offerings change frequently -- on one evening, the chef had prepared a plate of marinated olives and onions, cheese, mortadella, pepperoncini, stuffed mushrooms, frittata, a country pâté and marinated chicken breast. It's more than enough to get the gastric juices flowing and prime you for the pasta course.
KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani