Well, Blow Me Down

A number of adults still cling to the childhood habit of shunning spinach, no matter how many trendy chefs stuff it into cheesy enchiladas. And who can blame us? When improperly cooked, spinach leaves can be so soggy and bitter that even Popeye wouldn't touch them. But you can bet the famous sailor man would have braved the high seas for the aptly named Spinach Delight ($5.95) appetizer at Garson [2926 Hillcroft, (713)781-0400]. Spinach -- as well as mushrooms, eggs, onions and a bit of garlic -- is sautéed in just enough olive oil to bring the flavorful mix to life. Scoop a few spoonfuls onto a triangle of fluffy complimentary taftoon bread and sprinkle with a bit of feta, and you've got a Persian dish that easily could double for a light lunch or dinner.

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Brenda Tavakoli