WHEN YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT TO ORDER

The sizzling grill ($19.95) at India's (5704 Richmond, 713-266-0131) has a little bit of everything. As the name of the dish implies, all the meat is grilled or prepared tandoori style, which imparts a red color and a wonderful smoky flavor not unlike that of barbecue. First there's chicken tandoori, which has a tendency to be a little dry, then chicken tikka, more moist since it has been marinating in spices and yogurt, a lamb kebab, navrattan korma (curried vegetables), a lamb stew and a lone shrimp, albeit a large one. The sides include a pulao made with basmati rice dotted with green peas and garlic naan.
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Paul Galvani