"Verpiand is the chef at Étoile Cuisine et Bar
in Uptown Park, and his thoughtful takes on traditional French food are enough to make you forget all the bad iterations of foie gras au torchon you've ever encountered and rejoice at the fact that, finally, someone has steered away from fusion and overly deconstructed dishes to get back to the simple, hearty French food we fell in love with in the first place." Find out more in this week's Cafe review
. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS.