"When Houstonians pay this much for food, though, we often expect to be challenged. We expect the dramatic plating and liquid-nitrogen theatrics of The Pass or the unique twists on familiar items at Oxheart. You won't find that at Artisans
. Here you'll get classic French food with the occasional continental nod and presentations reminiscent of what might be taught in a fine-dining class for burgeoning chefs, which makes sense. Fox spent years working for fancy hotels and as the chef at Eric's Restaurant at the Conrad N. Hilton College of Hotel and Restaurant Management at the University of Houston. It's a style of cuisine that seems to be dying out in favor of more avant-garde or decidedly down-home food, and I find that sad. I like the old-school fine-dining feel." Find out more in this week's cafe review, "At Artisans Restaurant, What Matters is that the Ingredients are the Best of the Best
." PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS.